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The waters off Marblehead teem with fish ranging from striped bass and tautog to flounder and cunner. I often catch cunner and tautog on my outings.
On a calm day, I set out from Fort Sewall in my kayak to spearfish. I ventured to one of the many rocky areas around Marblehead, where I typically find cunner (Tautogolabrus adspersus) and tautog (Tautoga onitis). Both belong to the wrasse family, which commonly inhabit rocky shorelines. They are excellent eating fish with firm, flaky meat similar to haddock.
For those curious about regulations, Massachusetts tautog have a slot limit of 16 to 21 inches, and the daily quota varies by season. Cunner, however, remain unregulated, allowing anglers to catch any size or quantity.
Spearfishing is far different from rod-and-reel fishing. I dive to depths of 30 feet or more on a single breath to reach where the fish gather. When I spot one worth catching, I load my polespear, line up the shot, and aim for the gill plate or center of the body. After landing the fish, I dispatch it humanely using a knife through the brain stem — a Japanese technique called ikejime. The method minimizes suffering and prevents postmortem muscle movement that can cause lactic acid buildup and affect the taste of the fillets.
Since last summer, I've lost count of how many fish I've caught. Each dive reminds me of the rich marine life that thrives off Marblehead and how grateful I am to draw sustenance from these waters. My experiences with breath-hold diving and spearfishing have opened an incredible world of culinary and aquatic discovery I never imagined.
Bon appétit.
