Table of Contents
New Englanders are a particular bunch. We tend to like things to remain as they are. Any proposed changes to our favorite haunts draw suspicion and gossip. It’s not surprising, then, that it seems as though everyone in Marblehead has heard the Driftwood has a new owner — and that most are worried about it changing.
Once a Marblehead business has become so ingrained in the community that it’s considered worthy of a Hestia Pottery holiday ornament, the townspeople understandably feel quite protective of the place. The Driftwood is one such iconic Marblehead establishment, and the locals seem wholly uninterested in seeing it change.
As a side note, I’m new by Marblehead standards, having only moved here in 2019. Before I get dismissed as being “from away,” though, I’ll share that my husband and sister-in-law grew up here. I may not be a townie, but I’ve consulted certified locals on the lore of the Driftwood as part of my research.
I was told one of the bartenders at Maddie’s is getting an earful on this topic from concerned citizens. I admit, I too was curious whether the food and atmosphere would remain the same under the new ownership. The Driftwood is known for simple yet delicious comfort food at reasonable prices. The decor is kitschy, and we like it that way. It’s a favorite spot for kids up through retired folks.
With news of its sale, everyone began to wonder: Would it maintain its essence, or would new ownership alter the beloved Driftwood? I decided to investigate.
Last week, I went in at lunchtime with my kids, Brady and Cece. Inside, we found three of my daughter's friends: Maya, Maggie and Eva, already there enjoying some post-camp pancakes. The Driftwood's large chocolate chip pancakes have always been a top choice for local kids. All four girls reported that they were just as good as ever.
My son agreed, reporting that the blueberry pancake was in fact the authentic Driftwood recipe. If you have kids, you know they have finely tuned taste buds and can detect any small modification to a favorite recipe. Luckily, these pancakes passed the test.
Jonathan Morel, Driftwood manager and nephew of new owner Maria Torres, confirmed that they’ve been working closely with tenured employees to provide continuity. Two key staffers, Tori Holzwasser and chef Tom O’Malley, remain on staff as keepers of Driftwood traditions and recipes.
Holzwasser, who’s been working at the Driftwood for 13 years, greeted each of her regulars by name. Her interactions certainly made it look like nothing had changed. As more customers were seated, I’d ask if they’d mind talking to me. Everyone was happy to chat, and my first question each time was: Is it the same? I’m happy to report that everyone I spoke with was unfazed by the change of ownership — the dining experience, they said, was just as Driftwood regulars remember.
I was lucky enough to speak with some real experts. Dave Reid came in to sit at the counter and ordered a grilled cheese. He told me he’s been coming to the Driftwood since 1965. Back then, he said, Peggy was the owner, and one day she told him he was her only customer! Sounds like at one point he was single-handedly keeping the Driftwood in business. If he says it’s the same, he’s got the credibility to make that claim with confidence.
David Night, another regular who's been dining at the Driftwood for decades, ordered the chicken salad sandwich. He agreed with Night — the food is the same, the place is the same, and he'll keep coming back.
A couple arrived next: Sharon and Howard Rich, friends of Torres and seasoned Driftwood patrons. When their food came, I was wrapping up and heading out, but Sharon stopped me to report that the beignets are the same, too.
Torres has also taken over food service at the Marblehead Yacht Club and the Swampscott Beach Club, in addition to the Driftwood, her catering business, and her storefront in Village Plaza. To clear up a few rumors: Torres no longer owns Java Sun on Atlantic Ave, and Maria's Place in Salem is a completely different business with no relation to Torres. Morel told me there's been a lot of misinformation out there, which could be harmful to a small family business — I hope to do them justice by setting the record straight. He also told me he's been working with his aunt for six years. I asked if all the new locations had her spread thin. Not at all, he told me — there's a family member of Torres’ at each new business to represent her.
She wants to keep the feeling of a local, family-run business. He also said Maria wouldn't be interested in speaking to the press; she just wants to run a great business and let that speak for itself.
Morel said Torres’ goal in purchasing the Driftwood is to keep the local restaurant tied to a local family. They aren't planning any big changes. As it turns out, the people of Marblehead can rest assured: Torres and her family are locals too, and they share in the widespread love of the Driftwood. They take their stewardship of this beloved establishment seriously.
In life, nothing remains exactly as it was before — but in this case, it sounds like Marblehead lucked out with a seamless transition of ownership that aims to preserve the Driftwood's famous local charm.
